There are so many versions of this meatless sausage that it seems inconceivable the theory they originated because of WWII rationing could be true. Indeed, from a mention by the Victorian novelist and travel writer George Borrow in his 'Wild Wales: Its People, Language and Scenery', the Glamorgan sausage or one of its ancestors was around in the 1850s.
The other great argument for its antiquity is the simplicity and ready local availability of its ingredients.
No quantities need be given in a recipe for this dish, as the proportions vary from one definitive version to another. In broad terms then, Caerphilly cheese , or a similarly crumbly textured equivalent (mature Lancashire, Chester or Wensleydale would do nicely), is crumbled or coarsely grated and mixed with breadcrumbs, the ratio being anything between 2:1 and 1:2. To this mix some finely chopped leek, or failing that spring onion or even plain onion, is added, along with just thyme or mixed herbs, some mustard powder or made mustard, either English or French depending on your store cupboard. This is seasoned with salt and pepper, and the lot bound together with egg yolk.
The resulting ‘sausage meat’ is rolled with floured hands on a floured board, made into oblong rissoles or shaped like meat sausages, and either bread-crumbed by dipping in egg and then breadcrumbs, or left just floured.
Even the cooking fat varies from one source to another: butter is obviously a fine ingredient, but the great Jane Grigson suggests lard – that latter product would obviously mean it was no longer a vegetarian dish, which otherwise it is, and a good one at that.
The Glamorgan sausage is a breakfast standby on its own, but served with say potato and leeks makes a main course too.
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